Warning: If worms make you squirm – Do Not read on!

Worm Factory worm composting system
Charley Blewett - founder of CharleyBlue Designs

Written by Charley Blewett

Founder of the marketing firm, CharleyBlue Designs. I love UX/UI/SEO development for my client's benefit and audience reach!

November 11, 2021

Now, down to the wiggly business…Never throw your green kitchen scraps away again!

All the while keeping your plants happily fed with Worm Compost – otherwise known as Worm Poop!

Sadly, we must sell our urban worm farm compost system which includes two “Worm Factory” 4-tray upward migration composting bins. It also includes two well established red worm colonies eagerly awaiting all your kitchen vegetable scraps.

Worm composting is an easy way for you to recycle the food waste that would normally go to the landfill and then reward you with “brown-gold” worm compost in about three months. You will be happy to not be adding more waste to our landfill flow when you start composting your kitchen scraps in these worm farms – and you will gain a valuable resource in nutrient rich plant compost.

These two Worm Factory worm farms come with 2 base stands with the “worm tower”, 4 worm trays each plus one extra for a total of 9 flow-through trays, 2 drain buckets to capture worm leachate (a bonus as a liquid plant food), two scrapers, two hand tillage forks, and thousands of living, working, waste-eating Red Wriggler Worms.



worm factory tops open
Red Compost worms – red wrigglers – are living creature requiring care. From the time we first got our worms almost 12 years ago to now, we have called these our first pets after moving into our new home. With an average life span of 1.5 years (1-3 years), we have had 8 generations of worms since the beginning 1-pound delivery.

We have had quite a learning adventure which has been well worth the effort. Here are a few requirements to use worms for composting your kitchen vegetable scraps.

  1. These Red “Wiggler” Worms are not the common earth worms. They are garbage worms and live in moist, dark, organic rich areas. Like leaf litter, manure piles, and the like. Or your new working worm farm eating up your kitchen green-manure and pooping out finished compost.
  2. They require shelter from rain, sun, wind, and snow. These Worm Factory worm farms cannot be left out in the backyard. A ventilated and insulated garden shed will work. You don’t want your worms to freeze or cook.
  3. They require temperatures above freezing temperatures and between 40 degrees and below 90 degrees to feed. Never keep them in the direct sunlight nor allow to freeze. Both conditions will kill the worms. However, their cocoons are tolerant of cold and heat and will survive.
  4. It is best practice to chop the vegetable scraps as small as possible. Woody materials will not be eaten by the worms unless you use a device like a blender to pulverize the materials. We cut the banana woody stem in half a bunch of time before feeding to the worms. You’ll get the idea with practice.
  5. For pest control, do not feed the worms fatty food scraps like cheese, meat scraps, or oily leftovers. The Worm Factory base legs raise the trays off the ground to help prevent rodents. We have not had mouse troubles since switching to these farms. Composting directly on the ground is another story.
  6. Coffee filters and grinds, paper tea bags, paper towels, and such your worms will love. Rip them up first and make sure paper is damp.
  7. Leftover starchy foods like spoiled rice, bread, and the like are fine to feed your worms.
  8. Some say not to feed acidic fruits like orange peel nor onion skin, but we have without noticeable problem, and you should not see any by adding these chopped up to your worm’s food supply.
  9. Bedding material can be shredded paper or shredded coconut hulls (coco coir). We use the shredded coconut hulls to cover the food for insect control. Rock dust sprinkled over the top of the bedding can also help control fruit flies.
  10. You can use some mineral products to help the chewing process. Trace amounts of rock dust, and sifted garden soil help the worms digest their meals.
  11. Water – you do not want to let the worms go dry but over watering will tend to keep the worms in the bottom tray. They love it dark and very moist! But if you want to get some liquid gold plant food from your worms, try this.
    1. Add water to the top tray with a fine diffuser watering can.
    2. Put your leachate bucket under the spicket and open the tap.
    3. Stop watering and let the bucket fill up. It will take a day or so for it to trickle downward.
    4. Don’t overdo it with water. Experiment.
    5. Turn off the tap and either strain or give directly to your plants needing a shot of liquid gold plant food.
  12. To harvest your compost, move the bottom tray to the top-most position.
    1. Leave the lid off and let this top tray dry out.
    2. Take a few handfuls of worm castings off the top each day and place somewhere to be sun treated. Use the sun to sterilize your compost.
    3. After a few days you should be able to empty this tray and start using it for the next feeding.
  13. My favorite worm composting resources – Urban Worm Company – Guide to Red Wiggler Composting Worms: Everything You Need to Know (urbanwormcompany.com)
This system new will retail for over $250.00 for two “Worm Factory” worm composting system which do not include the worms. Plus, we are throwing in the extra tray for when you get that extra bit of green garbage to feed your pets.

You get these two working worm composting farms for $175.00. Compost worms are currently going for around $45.00 per pound. You get two established colonies in this package. As these cannot be shipped in their working condition, this is only for local sale and your pickup from our place in the North Valleys.

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worm factor front view


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